Article: TOP FIVE / Onion soup gratinee.

Byline: Peter M. Gianotti

Feb. 28--Lobster bisque has its advocates; chicken noodle, ardent fans; minestrone, devotees everywhere. And cream of mushroom proves its versatility each week.

But in the last week of February, the call comes for onion soup, specifically onion soup gratinee, soulful under a bubbling lid of GruyA[umlaut]re cheese. Few soups carry with them such an evocation of old Paris. Today, visitors still haunt the Forum des Halles, going to Au Pied de Cochon and assorted bars and brasseries in search of la verite.

The recipes for onion soup vary from restaurant to restaurant and country to country. On Long Island, you can have it ...

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