Article: Following the ghosts of Ernest Hemingway _ and Idi Amin.

Byline: Mary Ann Anderson

"Up there," the seemingly ancient Ugandan boatman pointed a gnarly finger toward a dense vine-covered ridge rising a hundred feet or so into the jungle above the hippo-and-crocodile-filled Nile River.

"That's where Hemingway crashed his plane while on safari. And tomorrow, when you leave, you'll take off from the airstrip where he crashed the second time a few days later."

The boatman, whose name I never learned, then grinned mysteriously, his white teeth flashing and head bobbing up and down in amusement, almost as if he had just told some long-hoarded secret.

Even as he turned to rev up the engine on the ...

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