Article: Stem your hunger at La Spina.(Food)

Byline: Mat Schaffer

LA SPINA

381 Summer St. (Davis Square), Somerville; 617-440-6284.

Grade: C+

Rita Grasso-Burton has a sense of humor. She named her new Italian restaurant, tucked behind the Rosebud Diner in Davis Square, La Spina ("the thorn"). The menu heralds "the strength of the thorn to protect, blossom and conquer the palates of our patrons." Consider yourself happily warned.

La Spina is a quirky-looking place that can't quite overcome its function-room appearance - red vinyl booths, high-backed, red velvet banquettes and pink lighting (the better to make customers' complexions look, ahem, rosy). The large, ...

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