Article: Americans missing out on the charms of Chablis.

Byline: Bill Daley

Chablis can trigger an involuntary shudder in those of us who are a certain age. That's because we nearly drowned 30 years ago in a flood of cheap California "chablis" made with everything but.

It was a wine so unpleasant many of us have shied away from Chablis, the noble white wine made in France's Burgundy region. Complicating matters more, Chablis is made from the chardonnay grape, a varietal whose blowzy, butterball persona (again, blame California) has triggered a backlash with consumers demanding ABC _ "Anything But Chardonnay."

It's important to realize one thing: French Chablis is nothing like California "chablis" or, ...

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