Article: Wild Alaska: Glaciers, bears, and a sense of wonder. Ten days in Southeast Alaska make the biggest summer vacation of your life.

THE CATAMARAN pauses in the blue waters of Alaska's Glacier Bay. From its upper deck, we look out at a narrow beach hemmed in by spruce forest.

A solitary wolf appears, dapper, furtive. He trots across the pebbled beach, then catches us staring. In a heartbeat, he turns and vanishes into his forest.

"I saw him!" a woman shouts from the catamaran deck.

"Now," her husband tells her, "you can cross 'wolf' off your checklist."

There are vacation spots that offer some of Southeast Alaska's best attributes: mountains, rivers, scenery. But no other place promises such easy and overwhelming immersion in the wild world. Within a hundred miles ...

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