Article: Italian soul mates: The secret's out on Old World pairings.(Recipe)

Byline: Jessica Yadegaran

Jul. 11--When Massimiliano Boldrini left Italy, the chef didn't stuff his suitcase with beloved bottles of Chianti or pricey Super Tuscans, but with two vines of fragolino, a grape that has a natural strawberry flavor and produces a fruity, luscious wine.

"That's what I could sneak in," says Boldrini, who owns Berkeley's Riva Cucina, where he creates sustainable seafood dishes inspired by his native Emilia-Romagna.

He's replanted the vines on his Napa property, a symbol of his dedication to l'abbinamento, the centuries-old Italian concept of matching food and wine. Italy has 20 regions, and more than 2,000 indigenous ...

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