Article: For Grandma Ann, Noodle Kugel wasn't just for special occasions.(Recipe)

Byline: Howard Witt

CHICAGO _ My late grandmother Ann Stein was not, by modern standards, a great cook.

Like a lot of Jewish grandmothers, she had mastered a basic repertoire of unadorned dishes _ baked chicken, beef brisket, roasts, Jello mold and chocolate cake _ and pretty much stuck to it.

She used too much salt and not enough spices. Vegetables were string beans or corn. Sometimes her cakes fell, and she'd blame the "new" oven she'd had for years.

Yet somehow, decades after the last meal she ever cooked for me, I can still summon vivid taste-memories of my grandmother's signature dishes, while I can scarcely recall many of the more elaborate gourmet ...

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