Article: The great fashion merchants. (merchants that dominated US footwear history)(FN: The First 50 Years)

There was a time when most better-grade shoes were sold in leased shoe departments or through independent merchants - not department stores. When there was only one Neiman Marcus and only one Lord & Taylor. Distribution was very exclusive. Few stores looked alike. And many were truly shoe salons, fireplace and all.

This was shoe retailing in the 1940s, 1960s and 1960s - unarguably the heyday of the U.S. footwear business. Everyone - retailers and wholesalers alike - helped each other. Buyers, not merchandise managers, wielded all the clout. And they never bought a line exactly as they saw it. In fact, influential buyers held court in the market and exceptional buyers ...

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