Article: Baja-mian rhapsody: Fish tacos are tasty, easy to make -- and scarce.

Byline: Kevin Pang

Sep. 20--Let us consider the fish taco.

It is a travesty that Chicago, America's third-largest metropolis, lags so far in per capita fish taco consumption. True, you can find it, as I did at about a dozen restaurants, under the "fish taco" umbrella. Both fish and taco components are present. But often the fish comes grilled and topped with foreign accouterments -- mango salsa, citrus slaw and the like -- and that, to me, is a fish taco phony. A lie.

For a true fish taco, certain conditions must exist. Look to Baja California for inspiration.

It begins with warm corn tortillas (flour is too heavy), typically two ...

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