Article: Voices from a war zone. (a writer's experiences in Croatia)

Route E-70 south from Zagreb is nearly deserted. In former times, this was a main road for trucks traveling from Slovenia through Croatia to Belgrade and beyond. But no more. Just south of Pakrac is the border of Serb occupied Croatia, beyond which non-Serbs dare not travel. It's Saturday morning, the summer sun is already hot, and to either side of the highway cornfields sway in tidy rows to a horizon of rolling hills.

I'm traveling with two counselors from the Kareta Women's Group, heading for the town of Lipik at the edge of Serb-occupied territory. Kareta, founded in the spring of 1990 after the first free elections in Croatian history, works with refugees ...

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