Article: Mafia on the wane, maybe.(Local Opinion)

Byline: Kevin Cape For The Register-Guard

TAORMINA, Italy - In this Sicilian autumn, with the grape harvest just in and the olives starting to ripen, the sun bestows its faltering kiss on Taormina's Greek amphitheater, from where I watch Mount Etna fuming in the distance.

As I walk down a steep path to the sea, anticipating a meal of swordfish or sardines, I am greeted politely by a local crowd, the tourist high season having begun to wane.

A seaside vendor persuades me to take a granita di caffe, a kind of iced coffee, and we chat aimlessly for a minute in the Sicilian manner, more carefully discreet than in Naples or other parts of the south. ...

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