Article: A southern taste for the ugly. (catfish)(includes related article)

While they're short on looks, catfish are long on taste; and nowhere is this better known than in the South.

The question left Bennie Fontenot with the look of a man who had just been caught with a sucker punch: the pain was mixed with surprise and indignation.

This son of Louisiana's bayous had been asked a simple question: "Why waste your time on catfish when you could choose speckled trout, redfish, flounder, snapper, tarpon, tuna, bass, and crappies - to name a few?"

It took Fontenot a few seconds to recover from the jolt, but he came back swinging. "Because catfish are the best tastin' fish around. . . why else?" he said. "I mean, there ain't ...

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