Article: The crack between the worlds: the Mexican way of death.(Cover Story)

Newly arrived in Guanajuato many years ago, I was fascinated by the colorful displays of sugar skulls and skeletons that suddenly appeared on the streets just before Halloween. HOW quaint! How Mexican, I thought. This was the real thing, at last!

But I was puzzled and hurt when a particularly warm, bright, new acquaintance I had felt was becoming a real friend arrived at my house one afternoon and presented me with a purple tissue-wrapped bundle, which proved to contain a fine hard-sugar (alfenique) skull, the size of a large grapefruit and giddy with rococo squiggles, flourishes, and flowers. Sinister glowing red tinfoil eyes glared from its hollow eye sockets, and ...

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