Article: The best barbecue in the world. (Santa Maria, California)

I count myself a barbecue aficionado, not a fanatic, by which I mean that I've never started a fistfight over a mess of brisket. Still, I've had my obsessive moments. I once took a cross-country trip whose route followed great ribs beginning with Charlie Vergos Rendezvous in Memphis and ending at the late, lamented Flint's in Oakland. And I agree with a friend who maintains that barbecue is as much fun to argue about as it is to eat. So when I say that the best barbecue in the world can be found in Santa Maria, California, I am prepared for objections.

But it is true: Santa Maria -- the best barbecue in the world.

Santa Maria sits among oil wells and ...

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