Article: Alaska on the rocks: by land or by sea, Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve is something to behold.

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So you're thinking about Alaska, the America that used to be. You've read Jack London and John McPhee. Your last walk in the woods was nice, but the trail was too wide and too well-manicured. You passed four signs, 20 mountain bikers, and 12 hikers walking briskly with their iPods and designer dogs. You found yourself wishing for a bear just then. No small black bear. You wanted a grizzly, or better yet, a big coastal brownie, Ursus arctos. A bear raised on coho salmon.

Back home, you're thinking again. You're restless. You bust out a map and find the feisty subcontinent of your imagination. You trace the coastline 900 miles north ...

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