Article: Homegrown: with Citrus at Social, Michel Richard and Jeffrey Chodorow attempt to re-create one of L.A.'s legendary restaurants.(Restaurant review)

L.A. made Michel Richard. Not just in the sense that he gained his fame here. Rather, the city shaped him, was key to his becoming who he is today. Richard had bumped around from Paris to New York to Santa Fe as a pastry chef, and in 1977, when he came to L.A.--at the time hardly a town known for its restaurants--he opened a patisserie on Robertson Boulevard. But a restaurant seemed inevitable. He'd appear as guest chef at Robaire's on La Brea and try out menus for friends several nights a week. Something fresh and inventive about his cooking called for a greater stage.

Richard opened Citrus in 1987. For a half decade after, it defined a new way of eating in the ...

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