Article: CRETE EXPECTATIONS.

Byline: John Kampfner

MY FAMILY has a split personality.

Two of us can think of nothing better than soaking up the sun; two of us wantto be on the move all the time.

So, my wife, two daughters and I devised a strategy.

Spend the first week recovering from the stresses of living in modern Britainand spend the second week travelling to find out why Crete has become one ofthe swishest, most sought-after of Greek islands, a place that's hospitable tothe foreign visitor, while jealously guarding its distinct cultural identity.

And on both scores, we hit the bullseye. Crete, distinguished as the home ofEurope's earliest ...

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