Article: Two meatballs in the Italian kitchen: two chefs, two styles: Pino Luongo and Mark Strausman have worked together for 20 years, and they've never quit arguing about whose way is the right way to cook Italian. They leave it up to you to decide.(Recipe)

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BICKERING GENTLY AND CONTINUALLY, LIKE TRACY AND Hepburn in Desk Set, Pino Luongo and Mark Strausman have made not just a tale of two meatballs, but two meat loafs, two soups, and more. The culinary smack-down between a Jewish boy from Queens and a former actor from Tuscany who became restaurant business partners, collaborators, and dear friends makes entertaining reading, it is true, yet their banter is a terrific education in the sort of rustic and clear-flavored Italian peasant food that is my favorite way to eat.

Luongo, a conscientious objector who came to New York City in 1980, brought his native Tuscan food to a city that ...

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