Article: Rethinking ricotta; Made by hand by regional dairies, fresh ricotta adds richness and flavor to summer meals.(fresh ricotta)

Creamy and delicately sweet, fresh ricotta achieves its deepest flavor in early summer, when milk from cows that have been grazing on new-grown pasture is readily available. The milk's grassy notes add herbal undertones to artisanal versions of a cheese that long has been a mass-produced dairy department staple. Some artisanal cheese--makers use goat or sheep's milk, and fresh versions come in many varieties: firm or creamy, wet or dry. A kitchen essential in southern Italy, where it's a by-product of mozzarella-making, handcrafted ricotta now is in demand at gourmet stores and farmers' markets. Spoon it on berries, add as a finishing touch to pasta, put a dollop in ...

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