Article: "At my table the most regal smoked salmon reigns."

When December arrives and party days are designated, I'm once again ready to order the finest smoked salmon I've ever tasted. And I still can smell the delicate, sweet aroma of smoking wood that greeted me the first time I visited Port Chatham Smoked Seafood in Ballard, Washington.

I stepped through the doorway and there, behind the counter, was Arnie -- a tall Nordic who proved to be a willing teacher. What a class he gave me that afternoon. With each sampling of the wares in his display case came a terse lecture -- first there is the fish, then the cure, and finally the smoking. And with each variety, he almost whispered, are guarded secrets.

A ...

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