Article: Back in the USSR: two decades after the end of the Cold War, Belarus has yet to warm to democratic capitalism--for good and ill.(World)(Country overview)

I STILL REMEMBER the first time I passed through the fence that once separated our world from the other one, a somnolent spring afternoon on the border between what were then West Germany and Czechoslovakia. Until that day, I never knew how mixed my feelings could be.

I hated what I expected to hate and feared what I expected to fear. There they all were: rolls of barbed wire; border guards crawling over and under the train; the sudden change from clean and modern to old and grimy; smoggy air and wet cobbles; red banners; wobbly, rationed goods in shop windows, the flaccid pork and exhausted vegetables; the wary, closed white faces and stainless steel false ...

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