Article: Crustacean fare inconsistent and wildly overpriced: landmark eatery features stunning decor, 'Secret Kitchen'.(ASIAN FUSION)

CALIFORNIA is the capital of Asian fusion cuisine, and the An family has earned bragging rights as a pioneer of the culinary movement. But becoming the proprietors of Beverly Hills showpiece Crustacean was just another stop on a long family journey. Together, they have overcome adversity and now celebrate their memories of colonial Vietnam--meanwhile managing to turn their misfortune to success. With two well-established ventures in San Francisco, eldest daughter Elizabeth took a gamble on a new location in the heart of Beverly Hills, built on a dazzling dining room and her mother's famous garlic noodles.

The An mythology is an inextricable element of dining at ...

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