Article: Pampered in the Pampas. (Argentina)

You wake at Estancia Los Alamos in one of five sumptuous guest bedrooms -- one with a billiard table, one with a full-wall mural by the fine Argentine painter Basaldua, all with great charm -- and you rise very happily, remembering where you are. Your bedroom door opens onto an enclosed courtyard with a swimming pool, wrought-iron chairs beneath a linen umbrella on the carefully tended grass, and a huge bittersweet tree full of grunting pigeons. You stand in the courtyard breathing in the high-octane, candy-yellow country air of Argentina, the inimitable early-morning estancia air that is tangy with the promise and memory of asado barbecues and horseback rides in a ...

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