Article: Chenin Blanc travels the world; WINE.

Byline: HELEN SAVAGE

CHENIN Blanc is a grape with a split personality. In Australia, the warmer part of California and above all in South Africa, it has been seen as a useful, but rather dull source of white wine that crops generously and has the welcome knack of holding onto refreshing acidity. .

In the Loire Valley, where it first came to fame, it is very different.

Early budding and late ripening - stretching the growing season of the relatively cool north of France to its limits - it produces crisp, intense wines, including some of the most ...

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