Article: From here to down under in search of racy Riesling.

Byline: Feargus O'Sullivan

As German and Alsatian Rieslings are among my favourite wines, I've always been a little sniffy about Australian attempts to mimic them.

Riesling grapes are notoriously fey things prone to mediocrity when grown in heat, and in Europe they generally cling to the sides of river valleys in regions where summers are mild and erratic. Australian summers, by contrast, are God's revenge on the presumption of European colonists - scorching foretastes of purgatory that can be better suited to cultivating melanomas than perfect wine grapes. Indeed, they have proved so dry in the past few years that I recently came across a website ...

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