Article: Where the mozzarella roams; There's nothing like the real thing, fresh from Italian buffaloes, writes Susan Spano.(Life)

The Italian buffalo is a massive beast with eyes that glow red and a bony rump. Resistant to any change in routine, it is happiest wallowing in mud, lying in the pasture and poking its wet nose into a mound of feed.

It has nothing in common with Botticelli's Primavera or Donatello's David. But since the 12th century at least, buffaloes have given the world something arguably as good: fresh, pillow-soft, white mozzarella cheese.

Mozzarella comes chiefly from Italy's Campania region around Naples. Although theories abound, no one knows when or how the buffalo first arrived from Africa and Asia. Frankly, I don't care as long as my diet regularly includes ...

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