Article: Sooner or later: touring Black Oklahoma. (includes a related article on Black Indians and the 'Five Civilized Tribes')(Travel)

The horses snorting and stomping about the stable, the boots, the jeans, the large oval belt buckles, the cowboy hats and the yellow rain slickers were all familiar sights from my youth in Texas, as were the self-conscious grins that warred with cocky delight on the faces of the 20-year-old Oklahoma horsemen at the D&R Ranch as they styled for our cameras. All of this would also have been a familiar sight a century ago in Oklahoma, notwithstanding that every-: body at the ranch is black. :But change and mass culture sweep all before them: As one of the young men brushes aside his rain slicker to pose with his right hand on his cocked hip--I'm so cool, I'm so ...

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