Article: Land of enchiladas. (New Mexico restaurants)

And calabacitas and sweetbreads and Malaysian noodles - which is to say that New Mexico restaurants offer a lot more variety than they used to

Twenty years ago, when I visited New Mexico on a regular basis, I always looked forward to that first plate of flat enchiladas smothered with red chili sauce. Driving from the west, I'd usually stop in Gallup and wander into the nearest cafe. One bite and I knew I was in New Mexico. It tasted like home cooking.

Today I'm a resident of Santa Fe, and a plate of enchiladas actually is home cooking. But the dishes many visitors enjoy when they dine in New Mexico restaurants have little to do with the state's traditional ...

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