Article: The golden standard. (fried chicken)(Cover Story)

Six years ago, Bill Greenwood, chef-owner of Greenwood's restaurant, tried to strike fried chicken from the menu because "it just takes so long to cook." When customers squawked about its absence, Greenwood reconsidered. Today, the Roswell, Ga., outpost tabs 50 orders a night for the crackly, honey-glossed fried chicken, featured on this issue's cover.

There are many practical reasons why a restaurant would opt out of fried chicken. Not only is it time-consuming, with cooking pretty much a last-minute proposition, preparing it is also messy and labor-intensive. Consistency, too, is a problem chefs encounter at the fryer. And today, when global influences mean ...

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