Article: Return to Centro Historico: a grandson of East European immigrants to Mexico City explores the capital's forgotten Jewish history--and finds his own.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

On a recent trip home, I did something I never imagined I would do: I called a travel guide.

Familiarity is what defines the word home. Stored deep in our memory are the sounds, tastes and colors with which we grew up. That memory is the fabric of our being. But memory is elusive. It deforms the past as much as it retains it. I left Mexico City in my mid-20s. Over the past two and half decades, I've returned to see family and friends. The visits have allowed me to keep up with the dizzying modernization the metropolis has experienced, which makes me feel as if everything is fluid, in a state of perpetual transition.

A ...

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