Article: DMZ holiday. (description of a tour of the Demilitarized Zone in Korea)

It is certainly one of the strangest guided bus tours anywhere. I got up early one morning and stood in line at the tour operator's office in downtown Seoul to have my passport checked, then boarded a northbound bus full of Japanese tourists. Passing through Seoul's northern suburbs, marked by a massive anti-tank wall and studded with tightly packed warehouses and apartment buildings, we came to wooded hills. A closer look revealed trenches, machine-gun nests, and sandbagged mortar positions among the trees.

"When we stop at rest area you may buy refreshments, but no alcohol," the tour guide announced in erratic English. "Alcohol prohibited. Maybe it makes you ...

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