Article: Retracing Martin Luther's steps/to the Reformation; Jubilee in Germany of the great reformer's teachings and activism will run until 2017, writes James Reston Jr.(Life)

WITTENBERG, Holy Roman Empire, 1517. A young monk marches up to the castle church and nails a piece of parchment to the massive wooden door. He is Martin Luther, and the parchment is his famous 95 theses, written in Latin. With this document, an open challenge to the power and practices of the Roman Catholic Church, the brash cleric sets off one of the greatest upheavals in human history: the Reformation.

Wittenberg, Germany, 2009. I walk down the long, cobblestoned Collegienstrasse to All Saints' Church eager to see the famous door on which Luther's world-changing protest once hung.

But as I approach the elaborate iron gate at the church entrance, I ...

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