Article: 20 cookbooks that every cook should have.(TASTE)

Byline: LEE SVITAK DEAN; STAFF WRITER

The James Beard Foundation released a recommended list of must-have cookbooks a few years ago. I was part of the committee that devised the list, and I argued against "Mastering the Art of French Cooking" (which still made it on the list) for the same reason I don't recommend it today for the average home cook. (The book has become a bestseller because of the movie "Julie & Julia.") "Mastering" may be a classic, but many of its recipes don't reflect how we eat today -- way too much butter and cream, dishes that don't appeal to American palates -- such as aspic or brains -- and methods more time-consuming than most cooks find ...

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