Article: Battle of the bubbles.(The Good Life)

Byline: Tara Weingarten

It's mid-September, fall harvest at the Veuve Clicquot vineyard in the ancient hamlet of Verzy in France's Champagne region. I am scooting along the impeccably manicured rows of chardonnay grapes, snipping the dense clusters of fruit and tossing them into a basket. That's not dirt on my blue jeans, it's coveted terroir. The vines, shaved into short, orderly slivers of foliage so that only a few perfectly shaped full clusters remain, epitomize the French obsession with controlling every step of its viticulture: neat, trim, precise. The fruit that grows on these vines will one day be sold as Clicquot's highest-quality -product--its Atete du ...

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