Article: Iran: A refuge for World War II's refugees.(THE HOME FORUM)

Byline: Joyce Pisarello

Hello. Thank you. Goodbye now. These words are the extent of my Farsi, so when a caretaker answered the bell at the gate of Tehran's Roman Catholic cemetery I froze. Truthfully, I hadn't anticipated that anyone would be watching over this quiet monument to a time most have forgotten.

The caretaker looked at me and his one-word question provided the password to enter.

"Polish?" he asked.

"Polish," I replied.

Last spring, I set out to explore Iran. As an American, I saw the trip as an opportunity to experience everyday Iran, to move beyond the political suspicions and outrageous rhetoric that have kept ...

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