Article: The Big Blue Sea; Guthrie's relaunched restaurant is a watershed moment for seafood lovers.(VITA.MN)

Byline: RICK NELSON; STAFF WRITER

Sea Change's name has several meanings. The Guthrie Theater's principal dining venue, formerly known as Cue, has switched management (Dallas-based Culinaire), hired the region's highest-profile chef (Tim McKee of La Belle Vie, Solera and Barrio) and been transformed into a seafood-focused restaurant. And by pledging to source all underwater proteins from what he calls "sustainable fisheries and environmentally responsible farms," McKee is communicating a break from harmful production practices. But to this diner, the name signals an exciting new epoch in the local seafood dining category.

Much of the food is sublime, ...

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