Article: Dead cities of northern Syria: a journal.

Imagine the study in contrasts: a Spanish Franciscan priest performs a Catholic mass in Arabic before a small congregation of young Palestinian refugees, some Belgian visitors and myself. The place is the modern reinforced concrete church of the Memorial St Paul hostel on the outskirts of Damascus where I am staying with my son, Nicolas. After Easter breakfast consisting of hard-boiled eggs and Belgian chocolates, I ask Sister Davida Antin, who runs the hostel, about the contents of a glass cupboard in the lobby. It is filled with an array of scholarly books on the early Christian monuments in the north of Syria which Nicolas and I have come all this way to study. She ...

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