Article: At the heel of the boot. (Apulia, Italy)

BEFORE I WENT there last fall, I never knew how wonderful a part of Italy could be, at one and the same time, to a) the general traveler, b) the art historian, c) the lover of prehistoric or barely historic ruins, d) people who adore caverns, e) bathing addicts, f) lovers of quaint buildings, g) gourmets and gourmands, and so on. All this, plus excellent driving roads, modern, air-conditioned hotels with willing and able staffs--in short, I found amenities of every kind in Apulia, the heel of the boot-shaped country that is Italy.

The general traveler will find a place not yet invaded by mass tourism as Florence, Venice, and Rome are. Apulia, once the ...

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