Article: One to three days above Alaska's Arctic Circle.

It's 4 A.M., and the sun, which has skirted the horizon since midnight, is slowly climbing in the July sky. Out on the tundra, an occasional three-wheeled motorcycle rumbles by, setting off a chorus of barking from vigilant dogs. Sunlight streaming in the cracks around hotel blackout curtains convinces you it's time to get up. Another endless day begins above Alaska's Arctic Circle.

Although you can go on your own by four scheduled airlines or dozens of charters, touring here can be expensive and problematic. Tour operators have a hammer lock on most available hotel rooms, and Eskimo cultural demonstrations are usually done only for tour groups, so a brief visit ...

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