Article: LA GRANDE FOOD FIGHT: NEW YORK CHALLENGES PARIS FOR WORLD CUISINE TITLE.

Alain Ducasse, the six-star Michelin chef and current torchbearer of French cuisine, has been spending a lot of time in New York.

There is his cookware to promote at Bergdorf Goodman, and for a while his girlfriend was based here. But in the kitchens of Manhattan's most celebrated restaurants, where Mr. Ducasse has been dining regularly, there is a sneaking suspicion that this Paris and Monte Carlo-based icon is checking out the -- sacre bleu! -- competition.

A watched pot for most of the decade, the culinary arts in New York are finally bubbling over, with a force that threatens to knock Paris from the top of the international food chain.

Many ...

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