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LE PERIGORD: A classic.

P.F. Chang's China Bistro * *

The Source Mall, 1504 Old Country Road, Westbury, L.I. (516) 222-9200. Big, impressive, upscale Chinese chain arrives in the Northeast. Display kitchen; Chinese antiques; American desserts, service, music.

I Coppi * *

432 E. Ninth St. (between Avenue A and First Avenue), Manhattan. (212) 254-2263. Exceptionally attractive, authentic Tuscan restaurant with outdoor garden. Lorella Innocenti, her wine-wise husband, John Brennan, and chef Sara Jenkins weave Italian country magic.

Soma Park * *

109 E. 56th St. (between Park and Lexington avenues), Manhattan. (212) 750-5656. John Scotto moves the grand old Laurent location ...

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