Article: Heart and soul; African-American cooks cut fat from traditional cuisine.

Crisp fried chicken, meltingly tender greens, creamy macaroni and cheese - what's not to love about soul food, the original comfort cuisine?

Plenty, according to a growing number of African-American nutritionists, health professionals and food writers. Delicious as these traditional dishes are, they leave much to be desired from a nutrition standpoint. Most are high in fat, calories and sodium - and the community that indulges ends up paying the price.

"I think the numbers show," says Jonell Nash, food editor of Essence magazine and author of "Low-Fat Soul" (Ballantine, 1996), "that the African-American community suffers from major debilitating diseases ...

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