Article: FOOD FOLKS: Couple's Beverly farm produce amounts to a hill of beans.

Inch by inch, row by row, Charley Baer is trying to redefine the term "Beantown."

As the only commercial bean grower in Massachusetts, Baer is reviving an old New England crop for the 1990s market. He expects only a fraction of his harvest to be baked with molasses and salt pork. The rest - more than 30 varieties, with exotic names such as Grandma Tilly and scarlet beauty - will go to specialty food stores, restaurants and seed catalogs.

A few pounds also will end up in the kitchen of the house that he and his wife, Carol, rent at Moraine Farm in Beverly. The Baers test recipes and reprint their favorites on packages of Baer's Best beans.

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