Article: Elegance and wit in the kitchen.(Books)(On Books)

There will be too many at table on Thanksgiving Day to have Elizabeth David's Faisan a la Cauchoise, but perhaps over the holiday weekend I shall make my slightly modified version of this easy but ravishing autumn dish.

For cooking the pheasant an earthenware cocotte is best, but any heavy enameled pot not much bigger than the bird and with a tight-fighting lid will do. Melt some butter, put the pheasant in and brown it on all sides, pour Calvados over the whole, add the lid and cook for 40 to 45 minutes on top of the stove, turning the bird mid-way. At the end of the cooking time, remove the bird, scrape up the drippings at the bottom of the pot, add a little ...

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