Article: St. Supery, Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, 1996, $10.(Food)(Wine Of The Week)

This is a sauvignon blanc for those of us who love the grape. Crisp and bracing, it smells and tastes like fresh herbs, limes and grapefruit, and it simply begs to be drunk with fish.

Plenty of California sauvignon blancs resemble baby chardonnays. Filled with the scent of vanilla from oak-aging, they feel soft and supple but taste bland.

There is nothing at all bland about St. Supery's Sauvignon. Its weight ...

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