Article: Haunting remnants of a pillaged arts colony.(Travel)

ONNINGEBY, Aland Islands - When Russian troops invaded this friendly archipelago in 1915, they unknowingly marched into - and effectively silenced - one of the first plein-air painting colonies in the world.

In 1886, a young Finnish artist named Victor Westerholm persuaded his artist friends to visit distant Onningeby to attempt a new form of painting called plein-air, for which studios were abandoned in favor of using the natural light and landscape outdoors.

As far as 26-year-old Westerholm was concerned, there was no more beautiful place to experiment with the plein-air style than amid the gentle grasses and blue-and-white waters of Onningeby.

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