Article: Russia's Pain and Pleasure.(crime and political activity)

The breathtaking architecture and joie de vivre of St. Petersburg can't mask the ghests of the past and the criminal violence that has overtaken this historic city.

People are cheerful and open in St. Petersburg -- such a contrast from Moscow. Open a door for a stranger, step back and smile and the response is not the surly, suspicious glance cast by your ordinary Muscovite but a pleasantness in return. Here in St. Petersburg there is a playfulness and an enjoyment of life that grim, gray Moscow just doesn't share.

For the most part in the Russian capital there is a shuffling, cramped quality punctuated by a brash flaunting of minority wealth. There is ...

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