Article: Anchovies without the angst.(Features)(Homefront)

A friend of mine says that if given the choice between a chocolate truffle and a cracker topped with an anchovy, he'd choose the latter. No contest.

I typically prefer savory treats to sweet ones, too, but anchovies over chocolate? No thanks. I've never been keen on those salty, oily, little fish. "Anything but anchovies," I'd say when ordering late-night pizza with college friends.

That was before France. During a recent five-day cooking course in Provence, I had no choice but to cook with the dreaded fish almost daily. Somehow, though, I not only learned to like them, but I savored them in tapenade, on toast, even mashed with garlic and slathered over ...

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