Article: Merryvale, Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, 1998, $18.(Food)(Wine Of The Week)

An elegant, well-crafted white wine, Merryvale's 1998 Sauvignon Blanc successfully navigates a middle ground between overt varietal character and heavy oak. The result is sumptuous.

Sauvignon blanc is a grape variety that can taste quite herbaceous. Many winemakers, especially in California, try to mute that character by fermenting and aging their wines in oak. Too often, though, the result tastes clumsy, like ...

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