Article: Lighting up Newport Beach.

Southern California's "Riviera" is delightfully laid-back in winter

* You see those Onassis-style yachts tied up in front of the glittering mansions that are larger than some hotels. While taking a harbor cruise, you hear the stories--Humphrey Bogart weekended here on his Chris-Craft, courting a young Lauren Bacall; John Wayne and his buddies played high-stakes poker in the back rooms of the Balboa Bay Club. And you understand how Newport Beach long ago helped get this stretch of Orange County coast tagged the "California Riviera." Gated communities, elegant hotels, teens driving their own Beemers--this place screams money right?

Well, yes and no. It's ...

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